American Muscle Cars Australia
Tech Talk & Articles => GM Cars => Topic started by: 1977 Transam on February 13, 2011, 09:35:56 AM
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Hi guys. Took the Transam out in the rain yesterday. Found out I have leaks along the doors, along the t-tops, and even at the windscreen where the metal frame has come out but won't clip back in. I'm going to buy all new seals and was wondering if the club knows someone who specializes in installing these correctly. I'd like it done properly first time round. Does anyone know of someone please. The closer to Penrith the better. Thanks.:rain:
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Dave Clee at Ponti world.
USGM Serviceparts (https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/)
0242 57 1230
Easy.
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you could also try Ralph Moore Autoglass he stocks seals and clips for american cars.he is located at Mascot.Not close to penrith i know but with these type of cars its not a matter of going down to your local auto one or supercheap store still better than waiting for it to come in from USA.Ralphs number is[02]96671933
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Dont forget our other sponsor JACTUPBITTSPIECES http://jactup.com.au/ give Steve a call! He's at Sylvania
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77 Transam, you have U2U.
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I think leaking t tops come standard from the factory.
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Yes Bonnevista.....I've heard t-tops leaking is standard. I feel so much better now. He he. There's gotta be a way around it though. Windscreen can at least be fixed though.
I'll see what Steve can do for me. Still need someone to install though. Looks like mascot is going to be it then. I need someone I can trust to work on my car. Standard businesses out there just stuff things up. Thanks for your help guys. Tommy.
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Thinking a little outside the box, have you considered sub frame connectors? The F body isn't the stiffest and the t tops don't help. If you can make the body more rigid, it should be easier to seal.
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That's an excellent point from bonnevista and I totally agree with him. Not only makes the body more rigid but makes vast improvement in handling also by reducing flexing. There are several types on the market including bolt in simple sets to fully weld in sets. Personally I prefer the weld in ones because they look neat like factory installment.
They price is around $300 a set plus installation.
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Hi guys. Do sub frame connectors have to do with the suspension? I'm still learning about these things. I'd like to have bolt on accessories though so the car can be sent back to original if need be.
Anyone got a link to a website with a pic please?
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Here's a link to Pro touring F Body
Click here (http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/chassis_components.html)
LeighP is a member of this club and he handles the NSW distribution for them.
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No link was attached thanks Joe.
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click where it says (click here) in my post above
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Thanks Joe.
I'll have to look into them.
If they just bolt in I will get them done after changing the weather seals and fixing the windscreen.
Anything to fix the handling.
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Hi,
Pro-Touring F-Body Sub Frame Connectors can be both bolted or welded or a combination (weld to the unibody/bolt to the subframe).
They require no floor mods and have almost no impact on ground clearance. There are a few brands out there, be sure to choose a brand that joins the subframe to the rear rails...not to the spring mount bolts. Other brands like DSE (Detroit Speed and Equipment) are "weld only" and require cutting the floor pans to fit.
Here are some pics of the PTFB connectors fitted on my project -
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m195/TA76400/71%20Firebird/P2060007.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m195/TA76400/71%20Firebird/P2060008.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m195/TA76400/71%20Firebird/P2060009.jpg)
These are $299 plus shipping, or can be picked up at Ingleburn. I have one set in stock at the moment....there are a few more sets on order, but they surface ship so can take 8-10 weeks to show up.
Easy to fit, drilling the holes can be a little awkward on the rear rail, but not too bad. The connectors themselves fit very nicely.
You can call me on 0417680623 if you'd like to discuss these parts, or any other pieces you find on the website at http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/
NOTE - the manufacturer recommends solid body mounts when welding these connectors in - or polyurethane or solid mounts when bolting them in. You can see the solid mounts in one of my pics.
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I was looking at these last night. I've got to find out about ground clearances though.
https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/product_info.php?cPath=46_127&products_id=6962
how do the pro touring ones compare to these please leigh or are they much the same?
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Well, the ones shown there are the Moroso/Competition Engineering "Weld-In" style connectors. They require the floor pan to be modified and they move the front spring eye inboard....they are a pretty serious modification which also would require offset rear shackles and relocating the spring perches on the diff housing. They are used when running very wide wheels and minitubs.
Moroso/Competition Engineering also make bolt in connectors - they do not move the spring eye mount inboard. These are the ones that I referred to that are captured by dropping the spring front eye mount, sandwiching the connector between the body and the spring eye mount then bolting it up...two of the three bolts on the eye mount secure the connector. The front of the connector slides into the rear of the frame and is captured between the rear body mount and the subframe. There are specific models for early and late subframes due to the rear mounts being aprox 2" further forward on 75+ F-body frames. If you order these connectors, be sure to order P/N C3114.
Personally, when I went to buy connectors for my car, I looked at what was on the market and chose PTFB connectors as they were strong and simple, had a good reputation and they tied the subframe to the chassis rail, rather than just clamping the connector between the spring eye mount and the body.
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Thanks for the info Leigh.
It's a modification I want to do now that I know more about it. Just need to work on getting the weather seals done then I'll try and find someone who can install something like this.
Who knows maybe even my office hands can do the bolt in connectors. he he.
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Most any workshop could fit these for you....not hard at all.
Try SMS Performance (member sms777), he's a reputable workshop that club members frequent....knows USA cars.
My pick would be weld at the rear on the rail, bolt at the front on the subframe...this would be the easiest/quickest install method.
I didn't weld at the rear on my car because, frankly, I weld the way I dance...badly....lol.
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I'd be the same way with my welding Leigh. I've only done it once before.
I'll have a chat to Chris. Just trying to ensure that I can return the car to original if need be and have as much clearance as possible.
If I can do both of those then I'm happy to spend the time and money.
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A t-top car would benefit greatly from chassis connectors....all my friends in the US who have used connectors on their T-top cars attest to it.
These same style of connectors were used by National Coach Engineering when they built full convertible 2nd gen cars late in the production run between 79-81.
The ones on my car are so tuff I actually use them as a convenient spot to place jack stands when I was replacing the re axle assembly...nice and solid.
Here you can see the full weight of the car sitting on the connectors....didn't even leave a mark, lol.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m195/TA76400/71%20Firebird/PA220009.jpg)
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The only thing I notice on the left is a CAT stand...:rol::rol::rol:
Sorry Leigh....I just had to do it.:lol:
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Thats the QA inspector subjecting my work to a CAT SCAN.....can't be too careful.... :lol:
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I hear you've got my friend's Galaxie in the workshop now.....hope you can track down his weird fuel delivery issue.
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1977 Trans Am,
There are two different designs of Hurst Hatches that were available in 1977. The first design Hurst Hatches were put in with philip screws underneath the headliner and the headliner is held up by the rubber of the weather seal, the second design Hurst Hatches were riveted into place under the headliner and the headliner is held up with two U-Shaped plastic pieces.
The first design Hurst Hatches have weather seals readily available. However the second design Hurst Hatches weather seals are no longer available so I wouldn't remove them as you'll never find weather seals for them as they are no longer made.
Here is an article to help you understand the differences of the different designs of Hurst Hatches for the Trans Am Model. I hope this helps.
http://www.firebirdtransamparts.com/techinfo/ttops/junkhurst.htm
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Hi hammer.
I didn't know they made 2 types that year. Mine was produced in April 1977.
I'll have to check out what type I have. Fingers crossed I've got the first type.
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And the other issue is that time of manufacture doesn't mean is 1st or 2nd design....I'm told quite a few 1st design hatches were replaced under warrantee with 2nd design due to leaks.
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I've checked mine out. The t-tops have a black frame around the glass as well as rubbers. As much as I can see I have the first design.
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Please post a picture of them inside you car and of the Hurst Hatches and I will tell you which one you have just by the picture. If that helps. And as a very wise Leigh P posted the date is really irrelevant as the 2nd design was used to replace the 1st design.
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Hi hammer. I'm using the net from my Samsung phone and not sure how to upload pics. If anyone knows i would be more than happy to listen.
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Hi hammer. I'm using the net from my Samsung phone and not sure how to upload pics. If anyone knows i would be more than happy to listen.
Here is a tutorial on how to post pics using photo bucket you can upload to photo bucket straight from your mobile.
http://www.americanmusclecarsaustralia.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1019
you can find lots more forum tips and tutorials in the Help With This Forum section CLICK HERE (http://www.americanmusclecarsaustralia.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=86)
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Thank you Joe for your help.
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Sorry it's taking me so long to come back to you guys. trying to take a pic in full light with my camera. By the time I get home it's too late. I'll try posting one on Sat.
I've registered with photo bucket though. I'll spend some time figuring out how to use it.
Funny you know. I've used pc's all my life and the internet but haven't used a forum until recently. I feel like i'm technically disadvantaged now. he he.
Is anyone going to Harrys on Sat night? I'll be bringing the transam along.
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yeah was thinking about going Saturday night, anyone else going?:hangloose:
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Just as an update guys. I went to Ralph Moores over the weekend to get my car looked at. Found out my windscreen wasn'teven holding on to the car in the right hand corner. The seals were all gone on that side. Had it pulled out, cleaned up and placed back in with new clips and sealed back. Metal surrounds fit perfect now. Gotta touch up the paint now though because the metal wouldn't secure to the clips because it was bent out of shape.:cry:
Back glass had the clips and seal replaced and things sit flat back there as well. Need to touch up that paint as well though.
When I drove it home a lot of the sounds I thought I was hearing from the t-tops weren't there any more. Maybe the windscreen not being secure was causing flex around the t-tops. Or it was the windscreen making the noises. Either way it's one more thing fixed.
We did find out though that the Transam has a bit of rust around the front and rear glass. It's never ending. I know she needs a paint job but I was trying to prioritise the work.
Also got the suspension to look at too.